Mittwoch, 24. März 2010
Creepy Crawlies
I admit, I was going to take this space to extoll the virtues of having a minor infection in a country where antibiotics are more common than candy. And they come in nice colours too. But due to current events, I find it more appropriate to dedicate this entry to the late, very great Freddie. No, I'm not referring to a long-dead popstar (although he doesn't get quite the attention he deserves) but to the spider which took up residence in my bathroom. Since I believe that all living things bigger than a plate should be named, this spider was duely baptized Frederick and for a few weeks we lived together in harmony. More or less. The sad fact however is that I cannot stand spiders, and as close as Freddie had come to my heart, I cold-heartedly planned and executed his murder. That is, I got the resident male teacher to beat him into oblivion with a broom. Sadly, on this day, not only Freddie but a bit of my self-respect died, since mentioned teacher first had to overcome his laughing fit at the sight of (I quote) "small small spida". But then, India is not anything if not a country of extremes so why am I still surprised when an insect big enough to feed a family of nine is decried as tiny?
Freitag, 12. März 2010
Trains, Planes and Autorikshas
Without wanting to sound like a show-off (which I invariably will, but we can at least keep up a pretence of humility), I have decided to dedicate some time to the Indian public transport system and how it compares to that of some other countries I have had the privilege to see.
There are two basic forms of long-distance travel: trains and buses. Trains are, and not only to my taste, the better option when it comes to not hour-long but day-long journeys. In part this is due to the inherent romantic nature of trains in general (made immortal by Agatha Christie and Paul Theroux), but also because trains DO have toilets (disgusting though they may be), the stations are clearly marked (who hasn’t nearly missed a stop on a bus in the middle of the night simply because there is no way of finding out what in God’s name the stop is called?) and there is the opportunity of stretching your legs on the train itself or on the platform (as long as you don’t get “duffiled”*).
In my experiences, the Indian trains rank a solid third behind Egypt’s number 1 and Turkey’s second place. This is due to the lack of lockable compartments and general overcrowding. Egypt’s and Turkey’s outstanding ranks are due to the kind porters, clean compartments, beds as comfortable as to be expected on trains and mostly interesting travelling companions. Egypt has a slight edge thanks to the bar in one car and the food which is included in the price and served in your compartment. So far, rather sensible and objective (I like to think). But what puts Indian trains before the surprisingly cheap Swedish variety or the “efficient” German model? It is true, the Swedish model is clean, comfortable, typically non-segregated and a lot of fun. But what is missing is the sense of adventure. If you plan to take a train in Sweden from A to B, you can be sure to get from A to B at the appointed time and without major hassles. In India on the other hand, this is not always a given. But the view of the countryside while sitting at an open door, the “chayachayachayachaya” call and steaming hot tea from the chai-wallah (for about 6 cents per paper cup), the upper-berth which you have to climb up to, the hot samosas sold directly at your berth and that little bit of uncertainty that you will really reach where you meant to go all make the whole thing an experience to write home about rather than 17 boring hours on a piece of public transport. (German trains come last due to incredible over-pricing, rude travellers, bad service and delays. The only redeeming feature is the socket in the compartment which can make Daniel Craig your travelling companion. If you happen to have a laptop on you.) Bus travel in India is to be discussed in the next issue.
(Tastes and perceptions are purely subjective and the author does not guarantee similar experiences on abovementioned trains.)
* to be duffilled: to leave one’s train at a station to stretch one’s legs and to subsequently miss said train.
There are two basic forms of long-distance travel: trains and buses. Trains are, and not only to my taste, the better option when it comes to not hour-long but day-long journeys. In part this is due to the inherent romantic nature of trains in general (made immortal by Agatha Christie and Paul Theroux), but also because trains DO have toilets (disgusting though they may be), the stations are clearly marked (who hasn’t nearly missed a stop on a bus in the middle of the night simply because there is no way of finding out what in God’s name the stop is called?) and there is the opportunity of stretching your legs on the train itself or on the platform (as long as you don’t get “duffiled”*).
In my experiences, the Indian trains rank a solid third behind Egypt’s number 1 and Turkey’s second place. This is due to the lack of lockable compartments and general overcrowding. Egypt’s and Turkey’s outstanding ranks are due to the kind porters, clean compartments, beds as comfortable as to be expected on trains and mostly interesting travelling companions. Egypt has a slight edge thanks to the bar in one car and the food which is included in the price and served in your compartment. So far, rather sensible and objective (I like to think). But what puts Indian trains before the surprisingly cheap Swedish variety or the “efficient” German model? It is true, the Swedish model is clean, comfortable, typically non-segregated and a lot of fun. But what is missing is the sense of adventure. If you plan to take a train in Sweden from A to B, you can be sure to get from A to B at the appointed time and without major hassles. In India on the other hand, this is not always a given. But the view of the countryside while sitting at an open door, the “chayachayachayachaya” call and steaming hot tea from the chai-wallah (for about 6 cents per paper cup), the upper-berth which you have to climb up to, the hot samosas sold directly at your berth and that little bit of uncertainty that you will really reach where you meant to go all make the whole thing an experience to write home about rather than 17 boring hours on a piece of public transport. (German trains come last due to incredible over-pricing, rude travellers, bad service and delays. The only redeeming feature is the socket in the compartment which can make Daniel Craig your travelling companion. If you happen to have a laptop on you.) Bus travel in India is to be discussed in the next issue.
(Tastes and perceptions are purely subjective and the author does not guarantee similar experiences on abovementioned trains.)
* to be duffilled: to leave one’s train at a station to stretch one’s legs and to subsequently miss said train.
Sonntag, 7. März 2010
Sexy Students
Tucked away at the bottom, but nevertheless on the first page of today’s Times of India (dated, March 5, 2010) is an article about proposed, and in some places already implemented “moral security forces” in India’s universities. Their job description includes the breaking up of footsies, the prevention of physical contact and the vigilance of mixed sex conversations should they stray to non-academic subjects.
It is the absence of the possibility of commenting directly (the internet has decided on a path of non-cooperation) on what I deem not only a stupidity but also a danger, I shall vent my frustrations here. Frustrations primarily because being a single white female in India brings with it constant stares, innumerable phone-calls (I heard of one case where a the caller was not satisfied even after 62! missed calls) and harassment in the form of “accidental” bumps against breasts and straying hands towards crotches (which is so rampart that the holy traveller’s bible dedicates a whole sub-chapter to the issue). These are, I firmly believe, the result of lakhs of young men who have no possibility of releasing their pent-up sexual energy in even the chaste form of footsies.
But while this is, indeed, annoying, we are privileged insofar as to be able to pack our backpacks and take a radio taxi to the nearest sparkling airport and leave, should it all become too much. But what of the young Indian women who are, not so overtly, but definitely also the victims of such actions and far more (several cases of gang-rapes were reported in February alone) and whose choices in such cases are still hampered by the idea of family honour and not losing face?
I am, in no way, advocating promiscuity, and furthermore, in a country which is now the world leader in HIV infections, more resources should be invested in sexual education. But surely there are greater problems to grapple with in the universities (according to the Economist, only about 18% of India-trained engineers are deemed “employable”) than the stroking of forearms and sitting in too close proximity on benches?
It is the absence of the possibility of commenting directly (the internet has decided on a path of non-cooperation) on what I deem not only a stupidity but also a danger, I shall vent my frustrations here. Frustrations primarily because being a single white female in India brings with it constant stares, innumerable phone-calls (I heard of one case where a the caller was not satisfied even after 62! missed calls) and harassment in the form of “accidental” bumps against breasts and straying hands towards crotches (which is so rampart that the holy traveller’s bible dedicates a whole sub-chapter to the issue). These are, I firmly believe, the result of lakhs of young men who have no possibility of releasing their pent-up sexual energy in even the chaste form of footsies.
But while this is, indeed, annoying, we are privileged insofar as to be able to pack our backpacks and take a radio taxi to the nearest sparkling airport and leave, should it all become too much. But what of the young Indian women who are, not so overtly, but definitely also the victims of such actions and far more (several cases of gang-rapes were reported in February alone) and whose choices in such cases are still hampered by the idea of family honour and not losing face?
I am, in no way, advocating promiscuity, and furthermore, in a country which is now the world leader in HIV infections, more resources should be invested in sexual education. But surely there are greater problems to grapple with in the universities (according to the Economist, only about 18% of India-trained engineers are deemed “employable”) than the stroking of forearms and sitting in too close proximity on benches?
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